KASUTI OF KARNATAKA

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 KASUTI Embroidery Motif:-

Kasuti Embroidery Motif 

 Introduction :- 

Kasuti  is  world  famous  embroidery  of  Karnataka  State,  earlier  known  as  Mysore State. The motifs and the art speak about the traditions, customs and professions of the people of Karnataka. The age of learning and executing Kasuti was common to royals, aristocrats and peasant women. It is said that the Kasuti resembles the embroidery of Austria, Hungary and Spain. The  origin  of  Kasuti  is  not  known.  The  word  Kasuti  can  be  analysed  as  'Kai' meaning hand and 'suti' meaning cotton thread, i.e. a handwork of cotton thread in Kannad, the language of Karnataka. The lingayats, the follower of cult Shiva, also known as Verrasaivas  are expert in this art. Traditionally it is a custom for the bride to possess a black silk sari called the 'Chandrakali Sari' with Kasuti work on it.

The embroidery of Kasuti was taught to children, neighbours, daughters by the older ladies  in  the  family  and  was  done  on  saris  and  blouses.  The  motifs  and  stitches were sometimes tried out on a piece of white cotton cloth which was preserved as a model. Other  centres  of  production  are  Bilaspur,  Dharwar  Belgam  and  Jamakhandi districts.

Fabric Used  = Fine  silk  fabric  of  the  sarees  was  used  earlier  in  addition  to  this,  canvas  or  fine matty is used now. The base colour is dark, usually black or dark blue.

Threads šŸ§µšŸŖ”Used  = Traditionally  the  thread  was  drawn  from  the  tassels  of  the  pallav  of  the  saris,  to make  the  design  appear  flat,  rich  and  gorgeous,  DCM,  Anchor,  and  Kohinoor. Cotton threads are used. The colours most frequently used are red, orange, purple, green-yellow and blue. The commonly used combinations are red-blue, red-yellow, red-white, blue-orange and green-yellow. Bright contrasts are used to make a bold and clear design.

Stitches Used  = Stitches in Kasuti are always vertical, horizontal and diagonal. The main speciality of this embroidery is that never the design is traced in the material to be embroidered and  the  embroidery  starts  without  knotting  thread  but  with  a  tiny  back  stitch.  The stitches are simple, minute, intricate and pretty. Kasuti is done always by counting the  threads. 

 The  four  types  of  stitches  are:- 

 1.Gavanti

 2.Murgi

 3.Negi  

4. Menthi

 Different patterns and motifs are worked in different stitches but some have mixed stitches. The number of threads on the material forms a unit, two to six threads for fine and coarse work respectively. However, the unit should remain constant till the design is completed.


Gavanti' = is the most simple and common stitch, derived from the Kannada word 'Gantu' means 'knot'. It is a double running stitch, in which the first running stitches are filled in by the second running stitch on the same line. The second running stitch works exactly opposite to the first one. Gavanti may be worked in horizontal, vertical or diagonal directions.

Murgi' = is a zigzag running stitch which appears like steps of a ladder or staircase. It is same as gavanthi stitch but works in a stepwise manner. The work in both gavanthi andMurgi stitches is neat and tidy, where the design appears same on right and wrong side of the material. However, the stitches should be of uniform size. The distance between two stitches is nothing but the length of each stitch. Smallest motifs like square, triangle, hexagonal, ladders, and flower are to be practiced so that the elaborate designs can be worked. A large geometric design is produced by grouping the tiny designs on regular intervals and sequences.

'Negi'= is another stitch in Kasuti. 'Negi' in Kannada means 'to weave' i.e. the design with Negi design has an overall effect of a woven design. Negi is nothing but ordinary running or darning stitch. It is worked in long and short straight lines or floats and therefore, the design does not appear identical on either sides of the cloth

'Menthi' = is the fourth type of stitch which means the ordinary cross stitch. In Karnataka 'Menthi' means fenugreek seed but however, people of Karnataka identify the cross stitch as 'menthi' only. This cross stitch is usually appears heavy as is used for filling purpose. This stitch requires more length of thread than the Other three stitches. Similar to Negi, even this stitch does not give same appearance on either sides of the Cloth.

Motifs Used = The motifs used in Kasuti embroidery ranged from mythological and architectural to the beautiful flora and fauna, i.e., gopuras, palanquine, chariot, shiva-linga, bull (Nandi), tiger, lamp stand, crown of Shiva (Shivana Basinga), swastika, sun, surya mukhi, conchshell, asanas, Rama's cradle, snake (Naga devta), elephant, horse, tulsi vrundavan, Hanuman etc.
KASUTI Embroidery Motif 

 
 Apart from steeds of Shiva and Laxmi, squirrel, parrot, sparrow, peacock, cock, duck pigeon, swan, deer, are also seen. Various types of foliages creepers, flowers are however, used in this embroidery. The main ones are lotus, chrysanthemum, jasmine, rui-phool (cotton flower), cashew nut (Kalka), grapes, kevada, kalawar, diamond, badam, berseed, black bead, maggihua, marigold, coconut flower, sparrows eye, rudraksha, tulsi leaf, brinjal seed, cardamum, chess square, flower pot, etc.

KASUTI Embroidery designs 

Artices MadeIn olden days Kasuti was done on Ilkal silk sari or Ilkal type village sari having broad pallav, called 'tope-teni' and simple border with plain body. In order to add colour and beauty to the sari, small Kasuti motifs were worked in the pallav region and many times the borders in negi and murgi stitches were also worked in. However, this simple handloom sari was made appear gorgeous by Kasuti embroidery. The choli worn along with the sari is known as 'khan', on which Kasuti was done with the matching colour, motifs and borders of the sari.

KASUTI Embroidery designs Garment 

 The women folk used to decorate the Kunchagi kulai (bonnets), used for children other women's regional costume was embroidered. But now Kasuti is also done on the household linen like, kerchiefs, bed covers, sofa covers, cushion covers curtains, shopping bags, carpets (Jute), plain saris of silk, cotton or synthetics, salwar suits, yolkes, cuffs, collars, belts, pockets, dupatta, caps, and used as trimming for children's garments.

embroidery use = chain , back stitch , cross , running 

Also read this :- 

Vedic period fashion history:-

https://glamfashionhub930.blogspot.com/2023/11/the-vedic-period-indian-vedic-fashion.html

Indus Valley Civilization Fashion history:-

https://glamfashionhub930.blogspot.com/2023/11/ancient-indian-historyindus-valley.html


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