The Vedic period / Indian Vedic fashion (Clothing) History

• The Vedic Era/Indian fashion History 

The Vedic period was from c. 1500 – to c. 600BCE, and the civilization was located in the northern to north-western region of the Indian subcontinent. The early or archaic Vedic period is the earliest part of the Vedic period, extending from about 1500 BCE to the time of the Rigveda. It is believed that this period was a formative period for Hinduism as we know it today. The Rigvedic hymns were composed from about 1500 BCE to 1100 BCE, after which point the centre of Indian culture shifted to the Ganges Plain, with the end of the Brāhmaṇas and before rise of Buddhism in Magadha and Classical Sanskrit in Pāṇini (c. 5th century BCE).As the Indian man was developing in this age, one of the most significant inventions was weaving of cloth and making clothes. Evidence of clothing in this era comes only in the form of Vedic knowledge which was verbally transferred to pupils by Brahmin teachers. Vedic people did not sew their clothes. Clothing was chiefly minimal and draped, however description of rich ornaments and jewellery are mentioned.

Between 1500 B.C. and 600 B.C., the era may be split into two parts: the Early Vedic Period or Rig Vedic Period (1500 BC-1000 BC) and the Later Vedic Period /Vedic Period (1000 BC - 600 BC). 

 

The Early Vedic Period/Rig Vedic 

Age1500 BCE to 1000 BCE

Rig Veda refers to Sapta sindhu or the land of seven rivers that includes the five rivers of Punjab, namely Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi, Beas and Sutlej along with the Indus and Saraswathi. It was the period of Rigveda when the Vedic civilization took deep roots in the Indian valley. Throughout this era, people grew from domesticating cattle, to learning the art of farming, building weaponry, preparing medicines and stitching clothes. The clothes of this period are used as the “traditional attire” of India as it was this land where these costumes were designed and worn.

      The Coming of Aryans

The VEDAS: The Aryan beliefs and daily life are described in the four Vedas, a collection of poems and sacred hymns, composed in about 1500 BC. Veda means knowledge. 

During this period, the Vedas were written in four strata which were distributed as: Rigveda, Yajurveda, Samaveda, and the Atharvaveda. This is why the period from roughly 1500 BC to 1000 BC is called the Vedic Period. It is named after the Vedas. 

Things do change over time. The arrival of when a new group called Aryans, in the Indus Valley brought with them a whole new dimension of culture. The Aryans came from Central Asia (modern day Russia). They entered India-the Indus Valley through the fabled Khyber Pass around 1500 BC. 

The Aryans were nomads. They raised livestock, rode chariots, and loved to gamble. They had no sophisticated government. They grouped in clans, and were ruled by warrior chiefs called Rajas. Their history is one of constant war amongst themselves, between the various clans. When the Aryans settled in the Indus valley, which was then known as the Sapta Sindhu (today’s Northern India,  

Pakistan and Afghanistan), there was no civilization. The Vedic period began when the Aryans started their civilization in these areas, flourished and later traveled across the world. In India, the Vedic period was also known to be a flourishing time for the Sanskrit literature and Indian culture. The Aryans were primarily restricted to the Indus region throughout the Rig Vedic era. We have little archaeological evidence but the Aryans created marvelous stories, stories they told  or sang for centuries. 

                The VEDAS: 

The Aryan beliefs and daily life are described in the four Vedas, a collection of poems and sacred hymns, composed in about 1500 BC. 

Veda means knowledge. During this period, the Vedas were written in four strata which were distributed as: Rigveda, Yajurveda, Samaveda, and the Atharvaveda. This is why the period from roughly 1500 BC to 1000 BC is called the Vedic Period. It is named after the Vedas. 

The Ramayana & the Mahabharata: 

Besides the Vedas, there are other sacred works like the Brahmanas, the Upanishads, the Aranyakas and the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. Around 1000 BC, the Aryans started to create two marvellous epics. We know about daily life during this period from these famous epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. These epics are stories about Aryans life, wars, and accomplishments. The Ramayana tells a story in which the (good) Aryan king Rama destroys the (evil) pre-Aryan king Ravana. The other epic, Mahabharata, talks of Aryan wars amongst themselves, where two clans, the Pandavas and the Kauravas, battle it out, and the Pandavas emerge victorious. This is why the period from roughly 1000 BC to 500 BC is called the Epics Period. It is named after these two great epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.

Political Organization

several tribal kingdoms during the Rig Vedic period such as Bharatas, Matsyas, Yadus and Purus.

• head of the kingdom was called as Rajan or king

• king was assisted by purohita or priest and senani or commander of the army in his administration.

Social Life

•Monogamy was generally practised while polygamy was prevalent among the royal and noble families

• The wife took care of the household and participated in all the major ceremonies.

• Women were given equal opportunities as men for their spiritual and intellectual development.

• Women poets like Apala, Viswavara, Ghosa and Lopamudra during the Rig Vedic period.

• Women could even attend the popular assemblies –Samiti

• No child marriage and the practice of Sati was absent.

• Both men and women wore upper and lower garments made of cotton and wool.

• Chariot racing, horse racing, dicing, music and dance were the favourite pastimes.Economic Condition

• pastoral people; wealth was estimated in terms of their cattle

• With the knowledge and use of iron, they were able to clean forests and bring more lands under cultivation.

• Carpentry, pottery, cattle rearing were popular occupations/professions

• Workers in metal made a variety of articles with copper, bronze and iron

• Spinning was an important occupation. Cotton and woollen fabrics were made

• Goldsmiths were active in making ornaments

• Trade was conducted on the barter system; In the later times, gold coins called Nishka were used as media of exchange in large transactions.

• rivers served as important means of transport.

   Economic Condition

• pastoral people; wealth was estimated in terms of their cattle

• With the knowledge and use of iron, they were able to clean forests and bring more lands under cultivation.

• Carpentry, pottery, cattle rearing were popular occupations/professions

• Workers in metal made a variety of articles with copper, bronze and iron.

• Spinning was an important occupation. Cotton and woollen fabrics were made

• Goldsmiths were active in making ornaments.

• Trade was conducted on the barter system; In the later times, gold coins called Nishka were used as media of exchange in large transactions.

• rivers served as important means of transpor

     The Vedic Fashion

Little had changed in terms of fashion as the Vedic age set in. Due to the hot weather, single pieces of unstitched cloth remained a preference. This single cloth was draped around the body, across the shoulder was pinned or fastened with a belt

Antariya:- similar to a loincloth, was meant for the lower part of the body. A versatile piece of garment,

 

it could be draped in various ways-

1.One could simply wrap it around the waist with pleats in the front. 

2.It could also be taken between the legs and tucked behind in Kaccha style. 

Working women found the latter style convenient.The sculptures and paintings found revealed that the Antariya varied in length.

 It ranged from the size of the modern-day mini-skirts to ankle length.

The fabric ranged from translucent to thick depending on the person.

A shawl-like garment worn over the shoulder was called Uttariya. This was also worn in several ways, which leaned on individual comfort and whims of the weather.Some wore it diagonally across the chest. Others put it on loosely across the back, resting on shoulders and supported by the wrist, similar to the way a modern dupatta is held.

Pravara, a third garment was like a cloak mostly worn in cold months. This was a general dressing for both men and women, which only varied in the style of wearing and size.

Both the sexes chose to keep the upper part of the body uncovered. 

Unisex fashion ruled the early period of the era when knowledge transpired in the form of the Vedas; the oldest Indian texts.

A Kayabandh, which is like a belt, was tied fashionably to hold the Antariya in place. Usually, it was fastened below the navel to emphasise the curves.

Although sewn and stitched garments were still not in use, people had learnt the art of embellishment. 

The costumes, therefore, were rectangular pieces of cloth coloured and embellished with gold and silver threads.

The fabrics used during this period were mainly cotton, silk, and wool.

Evidence of clothing in this era comes only in the form of Vedic knowledge which was verbally transferred to pupils by Brahmin teachers. 

Vedic people did not sew their clothes. Clothing was chiefly minimal and draped.

Some translations of references of clothing items in Rig Veda include:

1. Adhivastra – Veil/ the outer cover

2. Kurlra- a head-dress or a head-garment

3. Andpratidhi – (any) covering of the body

Social Structure-Role of Occupations:

As the Aryans settled in and began to grow crops, people started to have occupations. In each tribe, people began to belong to one of four groups: the Brahmana (priests), Kshatriya (warriors), Vaishya (traders and agriculturists), and Shudra (workers).       

In the beginning, these were just occupations. You could move from group to group. This changed over time, until a person's occupation or group depended upon birth. If your father was a farmer, you had to be farmer. Change from one group to another became very difficult. 

Later Vedic Period 1000 BCE – 600 BCE

The later or classical Vedic Period starts with the composition of Rigveda at around 1500 BCE. The end of the Early Vedic period coincides with Rigveda Samhita, which was the last work composed in Bhagavad Gita in 500 BCE or 1000 CE. Later Vedic period witnessed a cultural flowering and the development of Hinduism as we know it today.

Aryans further moved towards the east in the Later Vedic Period. Satapatha Brahmana refers to the expansion of Aryans to the eastern Gangetic plains. Kuru and Panchala kingdoms flourished in the beginning.

 Janaka was the king of Videha with its capital at Mithila. Magadha, Anga and Vanga seem to be the easternmost tribal kingdoms

Later Vedic Period 1000 BCE – 600 BCEThe later or classical Vedic Period starts with the composition of Rigveda at around 1500 BCE. 

The end of the Early Vedic period coincides with Rigveda Samhita, which was the last work composed in Bhagavad Gita in 500 BCE or 1000 CE. 

Later Vedic period witnessed a cultural flowering and the development of Hinduism as we know it today.Aryans further moved towards the east in the Later Vedic Period. Satapatha Brahmana refers to the expansion of Aryans to the eastern Gangetic plains. 

Kuru and Panchala kingdoms flourished in the beginning. Janaka was the king of Videha with its capital at Mithila. Magadha, Anga and Vanga seem to be the easternmost tribal kingdoms

The later Vedic texts also refer to the three divisions of India –

Aryavarta (northern India),

Madhyadesa (central India) and

Dakshinapatha (southern India). 

 PoliticalOrganization

• Larger kingdoms

• kings also assumed titles like Rajavisvajanan, Ahilabhuvanapathi, (lord of all earth), Ekrat and Samrat (sole ruler).

• new officials were involved in the administration

• They include the treasury officer, tax collector and royal messenger.

• importance of the Samiti and the Sabha had diminished during the later Vedic period.

 Economic Condition

• Iron was used extensively in this period and this enabled the people to clear forests and to bring more land under cultivation.

• Agriculture became the chief occupation

• barley, rice and wheat were grown• Industrial activity became more varied and there was greater specialization.

• Metalwork, leatherwork, carpentry and pottery made great progress

• addition to internal trade, foreign trade became extensive.

• Later Vedic people were familiar with the sea and they traded with countries like Babylon.

               Guild:-

. Class of hereditary merchants (vaniya) came into existence

• Vaisyas also carried on trade and commerce

• They organized themselves into guilds known as ganas

• Besides nishka of the Rig Vedic period, gold and silver coins like satamana and Krishnala were used as media

Social Life/ Caste System or Varna System:

• Four divisions of society 

(Brahmins, Kshatriyas, Vaisyas and Sudras) or the Varna system was thoroughly established.

• Women were considered inferior and subordinate to men. Women also lost their political rights of attending assemblies.

• Child marriages became common.

• According to the Aitreya Brahmana, a daughter has been described as a source of misery.

             Religion:-

▪ Gods of the Early Vedic period like Indra and Agni lost their importance.

• Prajapathi (the creator), Vishnu (the protector) and Rudra (the destroyer) became prominent• importance of prayers declined and that of sacrifices increased.

• The priesthood became a profession and a hereditary one.

• rise of Buddhism and Jainism

 • the authors of the Upanishads, which is the essence of Hindu philosophy, turned away from the useless rituals and insisted on true knowledge (jnana) for peace and salvation

           Clothing :-

In the Atharva Veda, garments began to be made of the inner cover, an outer cover, and a chest-cover. 

Besides Kurlra and Andpratidhi (which already mentioned in the Rig Veda), there are other parts like as Nivi, Vavri, Upavasana, Kumba, Usnlsa, and Tirlta also appeared in Atharva Veda, which correspondingly denotes underwear, upper garment, veil and the last three denoting some kinds of head-dress (head-ornament).

 There were also mentioned:-

 1.Updnaha (Footwear) and 

2.Kambala (blanket), 

3.Mani (jewel)

is also mentioned for making ornaments in this Vedic text.

Some translations of references of clothing items in Atarva Veda include:

1. Nivi – Innerwear

2. Vavri – covering of the body

3. Upavasana – Veil

4. Kumba, Usnlsa, Trilta – Head-dress

5. Updnaha – Footwear

6. Kambla – Blanket

 Jainism AndBuddhism

• the primary cause for the rise of Jainism and Buddhism was the religious unrest in India in the 6th century B.C

• rituals and sacrifices advocated in the Later Vedic period were not acceptable to the common people.

• sacrificial ceremonies were also found to be too expensive.

• superstitious beliefs and mantras confused the people

• teachings of Upanishads, an alternative to the system of sacrifices, were highly philosophical in nature and therefore not easily understood by all

• larger interests of the people were a simple, short and intelligible way to salvation for all people and this need was fulfilled by the teachings of Buddha and Mahavira.

• economic factors also contributed to the rise of these two religions.

• The rigid caste system prevalent in India generated tensions in the society

• Eg: Kshatriyas had resented the domination of the priestly class.

• Buddha and Mahavira belonged to Kshatriya origin

• growth of trade led to the improvement in the economic conditions of the Vaisya. As a result, they wanted to enhance their social status but the orthodox Varna system did not allow this.

• Therefore, they began to extend support to Buddhism and Jainism. It was this merchant class that extended the chief support to these new religions.

                       Fun facts

            The Red Dot on Foreheads:

Have you ever wondered why Indian women place a red dot on their foreheads, between their eyes?

This goes back to Aryan days. In ancient times, a groom used to apply a spot of his blood on his bride's forehead, in recognition of wedlock. 

Today, married Indian women may choose to wear this mark. A married woman does not have to do this, but she can if she wants. However, if a woman is single, divorced or a widow, she cannot wear this mark. It's a sign of marriage!Another reason listed is that at one time, the tilak or bindi as it is called was a sign of a happily married woman.

 Today, it is much more a fashion accessory--it can be any colour, any shape or size, and women often wear more than one." (Gerald L Harrison; Adult educator: Asian Studies Saskatoon, Saskatchewan; Canada) 

Movies/Series set in Ancient India:

• Mahabharat (1965 film)

• Buddha (series -September 1972 to 1983)• Amrapali (1966 film)

• Ramayana: The Legend of Prince Rama (1992 anime film co-produced by Japan and India)

• Mohenjo Daro (2016 film)

                      Key Words

• Dhoti-a cloth wrapped around the waist and legs

• Uttariya-a cloth draped over the shoulder, similar to the way a modern dupatta is held.

• Saree-a long piece of cloth draped over the body

• Antariya, similar to a loincloth, to cover the lower part of the body, wrapped around the waist with pleats in the front/e taken between the legs and tucked behind in Kaccha style.

 • Pravara-like a cloak for both men and women, mostly worn in cold months. 

• Paridhana or vasana was a lower garment which was a cloth draped around the waist with a string or belt called as rasana or mekhala.

• Kayabandh- a belt

• Ghagra-a long skirt

• Nivi, Vavri, Upavasana- correspondingly denotes underwear, upper garment andveil in Atharva Veda

Also read this:-  Indus Valley Civilization Fashion history/Indian clothing history 

https://glamfashionhub930.blogspot.com/2023/11/ancient-indian-historyindus-valley.html