Traditional Indian History:• The Delhi Sultanate fashion history

 

The Delhi SultanateIntroduction:

The Delhi Sultanate, or the Sultanate of Delhi, was an Islamic empire based in Delhi that stretched over large parts of the Indian subcontinent during the period of Medieval India, for 320 years (1206–1526).

It was established after the invasion of Northern India by Muslim armies from Central Asia, and was characterized by the fusion of Islamic and Indian cultures. The Delhi Sultanate was ruled by a series of sultans, and was known for its political, social, and cultural achievements. The period also saw significant developments in architecture, literature, and the arts.

Influence of Islamic culture on clothing styles:

The Islamic culture had a significant influence on the clothing styles during the Delhi Sultanate. Islamic teachings emphasized modesty and encouraged clothing that covered the body, particularly for women. As a result, clothing styles during this period became more conservative and modest.

Men's clothing styles during the Delhi Sultanate were characterized by long, loosefitting tunics known as "jama," which were often worn with loose-fitting trousers. Women's clothing styles, on the other hand, were more diverse and varied depending on the region and social status. 

However, they generally involved long, flowing garments that covered the entire body, including the head and face.One of the most distinctive clothing styles to emerge during the Delhi Sultanate was the "sharara," which was a long, widelegged pant that flared out at the bottom. This style was particularly popular among Muslim women and was often worn with a matching tunic or top.

Another clothing style that emerged during this period was the "angarkha," which was a type of tunic that was tied at the waist with a belt. This style was popular among both men and women and was often made from luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet.Overall, the Islamic culture had a significant influence on the clothing styles during the Delhi Sultanate, resulting in clothing that was more

Examples of clothing worn by men and women

During the Delhi Sultanate, men and women wore a variety of clothing styles depending on their social status, region, and personal preferences. Here are some examples of clothing worn by men and women during this period:

Men's Clothing:

Jama: a long, loose-fitting tunic that reached down to the knees or ankles. It was often made of cotton, silk or brocade and came in a variety of colors, including white, black, red, and blue.

Pyjama: loose-fitting trousers that were often made of cotton or silk.

Turban: a head wrap made of cloth that was worn by men of all social classes. It came in a variety of colors and styles depending on the region.

Angarkha: a type of tunic that was tied at the waist with a belt. It was often made of silk or brocade and was popular among the nobility.

Women's Clothing:

Sari: a long, flowing garment made of silk or cotton that was draped around the body and over the head. It came in a variety of colors and patterns.

Sharara: a long, wide-legged pant that flared out at the bottom. It was often made of silk and came in bright colors like pink, orange, and green.

Dupatta: a long scarf or shawl that was draped over the head and shoulders. It was often made of silk or cotton and came in a variety of colors and patterns.

Burqa: a veil that covered the entire face and body. It was worn by some Muslim women as a sign of modesty.

Fabrics:

Fabrics used during the Delhi Sultanate included cotton, silk, brocade, and velvet. Colors varied depending on the region and social status, but bright colours like red, green, and blue were popular among both men and women.

                                       

 Use of jewellery and accessories by both men and women

Jewellery and accessories were an important part of the fashion during the DelhiSultanate for both men and women. 

Here are some examples of the types of jewellery and accessories that were commonly worn during this period:

Men's Accessories:

Turban: in addition to being a functional head wrap, the turban was also a symbol of social status and could be decorated with jewels and other ornaments.

Necklace: men often wore a single strand of pearls or a gold necklace with a pendant.

Bracelet: men wore bracelets made of gold or silver, often set with precious stones.

Rings: men wore rings on their fingers, often set with precious stones like diamonds or rubies.

Women's Accessories:

Bindi: a decorative dot worn on the forehead, typically made of kumkum (a type of powder).

Earrings: women wore earrings in a variety of styles, from simple studs to elaborate chandelier-style earrings.

Bangles: women wore multiple bangles on their wrists, often made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones.

Necklace: women wore necklaces of various lengths and styles, often made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones.

Anklets: women wore anklets made of gold or silver, often decorated with bells or beads.

In addition to jewellery, accessories like belts, bags, and shoes were also important. Belts were often made of silk or leather and decorated with precious stones, while  bags were made of cloth or leather and embroidered with gold or silver thread. Shoes were often made of leather or silk and embroidered with gold or silver thread.

Overall, jewellery and accessories were an important way for both men and women to display their wealth and social status during the Delhi Sultanate.

Types of jewelry and accessories:

Jewellery and accessories were an important part of fashion during the Delhi Sultanate, and a wide variety of materials and designs were used to create them. Here are some of the types of jewellery and accessories worn by both men and women during this period:

Necklaces

Gold necklaces with pendants: These were popular among both men and women, and were often decorated with precious stones like diamonds, rubies, and emeralds.

Beaded necklaces: These were made of various materials such as pearls, coral, and precious stones and were often worn by women.

Earrings:

Jhumkas: These were large, bell-shaped earrings with a dome-shaped top and were often made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones.

Chaand baalis: These were crescent-shaped earrings and were often made of gold or silver and decorated with pearls or precious stones.

Bracelets:

Bangles: These were bracelets made of gold, silver, or glass and were often worn in sets of multiple bangles.

Kadas: These were thick, solid bracelets made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones.

Rings:

Signet rings: These were rings with a flat surface that was engraved with a design or symbol, often the wearer's initials or family crest.

Gemstone rings:These were rings with a single precious stone, such as a diamond or ruby, or multiple stones set in a decorative pattern. Other accessories:

Waistbands: 

These were often made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones, and were worn by both men and women.

Anklets:

These were worn by women and were often made of gold or silver and decorated with bells or beads.

Brooches: 

These were decorative pins worn on clothing and were often made of gold or silver and decorated with precious stones or enamel.

The materials used in jewelry and accessories during the Delhi Sultanate included gold, silver, precious stones, glass, and enamel. The designs were often intricate and featured floral and geometric patterns, as well as calligraphy in Arabic and Persian scripts. The jewelry and accessories worn by the nobility were often more elaborate and expensive, while those worn by the common people were simpler in design and made of less expensive materials.

Differences in 

clothing styles between different regions within the Delhi Sultanate:

The Delhi Sultanate was a diverse empire that encompassed many different regions and cultures, and as such, there were differences in clothing styles between these regions.

 Here are some examples:

Central India:

The clothing styles in central India during the Delhi Sultanate were heavily influenced by the Rajput culture.

Men wore turbans, long shirts, and dhotis (loincloths), and often carried swords or shields.

Women wore saris with a blouse and a dupatta (long scarf) draped over their head and shoulders.

Bengal:

The clothing styles in Bengal during the Delhi Sultanate were influenced by both the local Bengali culture and the Muslim culture of the Delhi Sultanate.

Men wore lungis (wraparound skirts) and kurtas (long shirts), and often wore a topi (cap) on their head.

Women wore saris or shalwar kameez (a long tunic with pants), and often covered their head and face with a dupatta.

Gujarat:

The clothing styles in Gujarat during the Delhi Sultanate were influenced by the local Gujarati culture as well as the Islamic culture of the Delhi Sultanate.

Men wore turbans, kurtas, and dhotis, and often carried a sword or a dagger.

Women wore saris or chaniya choli (a long skirt with a blouse), and often covered their head with a dupatta.

Deccan:

The Deccan region was a diverse area with many different cultures and as such, clothing styles varied widely.

Men wore kurtas, dhotis, and turbans, and often carried a sword or a shield.

Women wore saris or salwar kameez, and often wore jewellery such as bangles and earrings.

These are just a few examples of the differences in clothing styles between different regions within the Delhi Sultanate. Despite these regional differences, there were also common elements of Islamic fashion that were present throughout the empire, such as the use of flowing fabrics and the modest dress for both men and women.

Differences in clothing styles based on social status:

During the Delhi Sultanate, clothing styles varied significantly based on social status. Here are some examples:

Royalty :-

Members  of the royal family and nobility typically wore luxurious clothing made of expensive fabrics and decorated with elaborate embroidery and jewels.

Men often wore long tunics, trousers, and a turban adorned with jewels or feathers.

Women often wore heavily embroidered and bejeweled saris or salwar kameez, and covered their heads and faces with a veil or dupatta.

Middle class:

The middle class, which included merchants and other wealthy individuals, also wore clothing made of fine fabrics, but they were generally less ornate than the clothing worn by the nobility.

Men often wore kurtas and dhotis, while women wore saris or salwar kameez.

Lower class:

The lower class, which included peasants, artisans, and laborers, typically wore simpler clothing made of cheaper fabrics.

Men often wore simple kurtas and dhotis, while women wore saris or salwar kameez made of plain cotton or silk.

Religious scholars:

Religious scholars, who were highly respected in Islamic society, often wore simple, unadorned clothing made of plain white or beige cotton.Men typically wore a long shirt, loose pants, and a white turban, while women wore a plain white sari or salwar kameez.

These are just a few examples of the differences in clothing styles based on social status during the Delhi Sultanate. Clothing was an important indicator of social status, and the type of clothing a person wore often signaled their wealth, profession, or religious affiliation.

Influence of clothing styles and jewellryDelhi Sultanate period in ModernIndia:

Even in today’s times, a walk through the streets of Delhi where the palaces boasted of their pillared walls and beautiful paintings with Islamic representations in art, which had been common at the time, takes one on a déjà vu. The fusion of indigenous Muslimcustoms and styles is beautifully seen in their art and architecture. 

A school decorated with Indo-Persian style of paintings depicts groups of people standing in rows and identical poses having narrow bands of decoration running across their garment in bright and unusual colours. The occasional displays of glimmering armor, embellished vessels and ornaments in emerald, gold is astounding.

Fashion played an important role in the Delhi Sultanate. One of the most significant developments in fashion during the Delhi Sultanate was the introduction of Islamic clothing styles, which were adopted by both the ruling elite and the common people. 

The traditional clothing styles and jewelry designs of the Delhi Sultanate continue to influence fashion in modern-day India in various ways.

Here are some examples:-

Clothing styles:

Many traditional clothing styles of the Delhi Sultanate, such as the salwar kameez and the sherwani, are still popular today and have evolved over time to incorporate modern design elements.

Designers often use traditional fabrics, such as silk, cotton, and brocade, to create modern versions of traditional clothing styles.Traditional embroidery techniques, such as zardozi and gota work, are still used today to embellish clothing.Jewellery designs

 Traditional jewellery designs, such as jhumkas, maang tikkas, and bangles, are still worn by women today and are often incorporated into modern jewellery designs.

Jewellers often use traditional techniques, such as filigree work and Kundan setting, to create modern jewellery pieces.Traditional jewellery designs are often seen as a way to connect with Indian culture and heritage, and are worn on special occasions such as weddings and festivals.

Overall, the traditional clothing styles and jewellery designs of the Delhi Sultanate continue to inspire and influence fashion in modern-day India, and are an important part of India's cultural heritage.

The cross culture and the amalgamation of their art, architecture, people and textiles is simply amazing. It expressed a parallel line of resonance between pre-modern and contemporary Indian political and cultural experiences along with giving it a Persian touch of customs and heritage.

Key Words:

Jama- a long tunic

the churidar -a tight-fitting trouser

chaniya choli-a long skirt with a blouse

sherwani- knee-length coat buttoning to the neck, worn by men