Chikankari of UP/chikan motif

Chikankari of UP

Uttar Pradesh is a land of overwhelming contrasts, where extremes are normality. 

The Ganges dominates the state, emerging from the foothills of the Himalayas to 

the last expanse of plains, passing though he holy city of the Varanasi. 

Uttar Pradesh is famous for its finely woven Brocades metal work and the delicate 

chikan work also called white work. 

History of chikankari

Chikankari work is thought Calcutta.  The  Jamdani  weaving  and  European  white  work  must  have  been 

influential in giving rise to this work.  From 1850 onwards a very fine, white on white on Jamdani was produced in Tanda, 

near Faizabad, to the East of the Lucknow. It is said that this marked the beginning of Chikankari work in Lucknow. 

been derived from the Persian word, either „Chikan‟, „Chikin‟ or „Chikan‟. It means a 

kind of cloth wrought with needle–work. Although it originated as a court craft, today 

it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity.  

 Chikan work has a very light, gossamer – like quality. This makes it very suitable for 

the  seemingly  hot  climate  of  the  northern  plain  region.  It  can  be  assumed  that 

Chikankari,  using  sheer  fabrics  evolved  as  a  logical  answer  to  the  problem  of 

keeping  cool  and  also  providing  adornment  and  beauty  to  one‟s  person  or  in the 

surroundings. 

 it is thought that Noor Jehan got inspired by the Turkish Architecture (seen in Taj 

Mahal) and produced this raised effect on white fabric with white threads to show 

the  carvings  and  trellis  on  the  marbel.  Chikankari  is  thought  to  be  her  personal creation.

Fabric Used  

Traditionally very fine cotton, or muslin was used, generally white in color. Now all 

kinds‟ sheer fabrics like organdy, chiffons, georgettes, silk, jute are also used. The 

colours  used  are  all  pastel  colors  of pink,  blue, peach,  pista–green. Black  is  also 

used as the ground color.

Thread Used 

White untwisted cotton or sometimes twisted silk threads were used. 

Motifs  

Strictly floral motifs and paisleys are used. This embroidery is done by the Muslim 

workers; thus no animal and human figures.

Production

The commercial Chikankari work is organized and carried out by men. Men and

women both carry out the embroidery work. The designs are block printed on the

fabric. Temporary colors like geru in water or ultramarine blue (Neel) in kerosene

are used for block printing the designs. After the embroidery is done, the products

are washed, starched and ironed.

The articles produced are sarees, Salwar kurtas, dupatta, shirts, bed and table

linen. Lots of variations are produced today. Chikankari work in done along with

sequins, and beads on brightly coloured fabrics, to suit the modern taste.

Metal Work of Uttar Pradesh

Banaras and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh are famous for metal weaving and

embroidery. The metal wire – kalabattun or zari as it is popularly called was a finally

drawn silver wire with of plating gold. To cut down the cost, a copper wire was

plated with gold. Cheap imitations of zari are now–a–days available; a synthetic

golden or silver thread is wrapped over a core of cotton thread.

Lucknow‟s Zardozi and Kamdani are the most popular. 

Different types of materials

Used are: Zardozi

(a) Salma – Very thin twisted metal wire.

(b) Zari – Threads with gold or silver coating.

(c) Gajai – a circular thin stift wire used for outline.

(d) Tilli/Sitara – Sequins.

(e) Mukaish/Badla – Thin small metal sheet which is

     pressed into the fabric and folded.

(f) Moti – Beads (golden, silver or white) are used

     along with the work to fill up designs or empty