Embroidery of gujrat
Embroidery of gujrat = (KUTCH WORK OF GUJRAT)
Gujarat is a state where many groups and sub–groups stay together in each village. The embroidery style, stitches, colours used identify the group or sub–group and the relationship between them. Embroidery is a leisure activity to be enjoyed in groups and helps them to socialize and unite.
Classification of Embroidery
(I). Professional Embroideries motifs = flower from mughal world
1.MOCHI EMBROIDERY
it is belong to kutch and saurasntra . Embroidery is done in fine chain stitch using silk thread. The device used to embroider is an “ari”. This is a fine awl which has a notch incised to form a hook.The fabric used is satin, usually in dark colours, with black being the favourite. Articles embroidered are ghagra, cholis (bodices), sari borders, children‟s chablas and torans. They also embroidered the traditional pichhavai hangings for temples, illustrating Lord Krishna.
2.Chinai Embroidery
In the late 19th Century and early 20th Century, there was a community of Chinies embroiderers living in Surat, who produced work that was chinies in design and technique. Their embroidery was known as “Chinai” The embroidery was done with either fine silk floss or tightly spun 2 ply silk thread. Multicolours were used on a white or sometimes coloured silk background Very fine chain and stem stitch is done with a needle. Articles made are shawls, saris, cholis and long narrow border strips.
(2) Domestic Embroideries
Domestic embroideries are prevalent in Kutch, Saurashtra and Western Rajasthan, and the adjoining province of Sind in Pakistan. The inhabitants of these places, reflect a cultural diversity that has resulted from the influx of people over the centuries through Iran and Central Asia. The display of embroidery takes place at weddings and religious celebrations. Distinctive embroidered clothes are worn as a proud batch of caste and cultural identity. Caste and social status is indicated by the colours and materials used. The merchant communities often work on silk where as the farming and pastoral castes usually use cotton and wool.
1. SINDHI STYLE = The main feature is the lavish application of mirrors. The main types done are chain stitch, Abhla bharat, Heer Bharat and the interlacing stitch of Sindi taropa. Chain stitch is similar to that of Kutch but is done with a white thread and is accompanied with lots of mirrors.Sindi Taropa commonly known as interlacing stitch practiced at Sindh, Kutch and Kathiawar. In Sindhi Taropa, the movement of the needle and thread is very important, does not bring any newness in the texture but can simply be said that an impression of the ingenuity of the women folk.
2. MOTI BHARAT = Gujarat in famous for the bead work or Moti Bharat. The beads are not stitched to a background but they are stitched together with a needle and thread. The background is of white beads with various patterns created using coloured beads. She articles made are stiff and thus used for torans, wall hangings, bags, purses, toys.
3. KUTCH STYLE = This is practiced by Rabaris shepherds, kaubi farming castes, and Ahir herding castes. Ahir Bharat: The word Ahir may be derived from the Sanskrit word „Abhira‟ meaning milk man. - The base material used was hand spun, hand woven coarse khaddar. At present the embroidery is done on silk or satin. -Threads used are untwisted silk floss or twisted silken thread. Colourful threads are used on dark base. - Stitch used is the chain stitch. - Motifs used are birds, flowers, creepers, foliages, parrots, peacock, bulbul, dancing doll, karan Phool (the flower shaped earring). - Articles made are choli, pyjamas, jackets, bonnets, caps and other children‟s garments.
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MOTIFS = rangoli designs , geometric design
MATERIAL AND THREAD = cotton , silk
EMBROIDERIES = chain , open chain , buttonhole , cross , pearl running , stem , mirror work , sindhi kashida. , double cross stitch
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