Ancient Indian History-Post Vedic Era fashion History

 

LATER VEDIC ERA – THE TIME OF DYNASTIES

The Indian Ancient History Timeline roughly tells us about the beginning of the earliest cultures, agriculture, civilization and its impact on clothing in the country. It was during this period that the Pre-Aryans, the Indo-Aryans, the Greeks, the Hunas, the Scythians, etc invaded India and made it their homeland.In the previous chapters, we studied about the development of clothing in India from minimal clothing, drapes to more sophisticated attires along with elaborate hairdo and ornamentation. Continuing our journey of delving into the history of Indian clothing, let’s get an overview of the chronological emergence of different dynasties that emerged in ancient India

Indian Clothing in Post-Vedic period

The representatives of Hindush (as well as Gandara and Thatagus) in each in- stance are characterized by their loincloths, sandals, and exposed upper body, which distinguish them from the representatives of other eastern provinces.

Hindush soldier, wearing a Dhoti and a circa 480 BCE

Statue of Magadhan king Udayin/Turban. Tomb of Xeres I. Udayabhadra, wearing drapes.

Pre-Mauryan Era:

Nanda dynasty, family that ruled Magadha, in northern India, between c. 343 and 321 BCE. The Nanda dynasty ruled in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent during the fourth century BCE, and possibly during the fifth century BCE. The Nanda dynasty immediately preceded the dynasty of the Mauryas, and, as with all pre-Maurya dynasties, what is known about it is a mixture of fact and legend. 

Clothing and lifestyle

• Even though scholars have debated the archaeological evidence from the preMauryan era, a lot of terracotta artifacts by various scholars have been dated to the pre-Mauryan era which shows continuity of the dressing styles leading up to the Mauryan period.

• The terracotta also contains naturalistic style of depicting human faces just like Mauryan periods. 

• The pre-Mauryan periods have been marked by the continuation of Indus arts and depict elaborate headdresses, conical hats with heavy earring.

• Bronze rattling mirror excavated from Pazyrk dated to the 4th century BC also depict Indians wearing typical Indian classical clothing such as dhoti wrap and tightfitting half sleeved stitched shirts like kurta.

• Another pre-Mauryan archaeolog

ical evidence of Indian dressing comes from Saurashtra janapada coins which are one of the earliest representations of Indian pre-Mauryan arts. The coins are dated between 450 and 300 BCE.

Mauryan Empire: 322 BCE – 187 BCE

The Mauryan Empire, which formed around 321 B.C.E. and ended in 185 B.C.E., was the first pan-Indian empire, an empire that covered most of the Indian region. It spanned across central and northern India as well as over parts of modern-day Iran.

The Mauryan Empire (322 BCE - 185 BCE) marked a significant period in Indian history, with clothing becoming an important aspect of social status. The upper classes wore fine muslin and silk fabrics, while the lower classes wore coarse cotton fabrics. The empire also saw the rise of jewelry, with gold and silver ornaments becoming popular among the royalty.

Chandra Gupta was a powerful emperor in the Mauryan Empire. Ashoka and Bindusara are other important Mauryan rulers.

The late and post-Vedic age saw gradual changes occur in the dressing sense of people. As kingdoms were built and trade was established, this portion of the history of fashion in India saw Greco-Roman influences.

The first largest empire found by Chandragupta Maurya and the Sunga dynasty carried forward the trend of the early Vedic period. The only difference was that some married women wore a breast band.The Greeks got tunics, while the 

Romans brought to India various ways of draping. Some believe that the saree came into existence in this age, although the matter is still under debate.

Ancient Roman female costumes involve a long tunic, over which a rectangular piece of wool is pulled over the head, bearing resemblance to the Indian saree.

Fascinatingly, this rectangular cloak-like garment was called the Palla; the decorated part of the saree. This led many historians to believe that the classic saree is the result of Roman influence.

However, from what the major part of the history of fashion in India tells us, is that the saree came to be after the switch to stitched and sewn clothes.

The Kushan rulers can be accredited to bring about a revolution in the Indian fashion scene. We see a shift from purely draped garments to cut and sewn ones in their time.

Did you know?

• The very first record of the draping of a saree-stylefabric was found in the Mauryan Empire (322 BCE – 187 BCE) art.
• The sculptures of the time are seen   draped in sarees along with some detailed jewellery carvings.

MAURYAN AND SUNGA PERIOD (321-72 BC)

During that period both men and women wore 3 unstitched garments called Antalya, muraja, and uttariya. 

Antariya was the main garment made from white cotton, linen or muslin. They sometimes used to do embroidery on it with gold or other precious stones.

Post Vedic period women fashion 

 It was an unstitched length of cloth draped around the hips in a kachcha style, which was extending from the waist to the calves or ankles. This was secured by a band around the waist with different styles such as vethaka, muraja, pattika or kallabuka. 

The third item was called uttariya made from fine cotton or silk but for low-class people, it was made from coarse cotton which was used as a long scarf to cover the upper part of the body which again was draped in different styles.

Women generally covered their heads with uttariya in different styles having a beautiful embroidered border. 

The upper castes dressed themselves in fine muslin and wore gold ornaments.

The main items of clothing were the Antariya made of white cotton or muslin, tied to the waist by a sash called Kayabandh and a scarf called the Uttariya used to drape the top half of the body. 

Headgear

 The hair was centered parted with two braids or a large knot at the back. At times it was decorated with fringes or pendants. For the male no such headgear was noticed during the Maureen period. However, during the Sunga period great emphasis was put on the headgears in which their hair itself was styled in different forms to make the headgear. 

Ornaments

Looking at the sculptures we can make out that they were very much fond of wearing jewellery. The material used most frequently, were gold and precious stones like corals, rubies, sapphires, agates, and crystals. Pearls too were used and beads of all kinds were plentiful including those made of glass. 

Certain ornaments were common to both sexes, like earrings, necklaces, armlets, bracelets and embroidered belts. Earring or karnika were of three types-a simple ring or circle called Kundala, a circular disc earring known as dehri and earrings with a flowerlike shape known as Karnaphul. 

Necklaces of two kinds were worn. A short one called Kantha which was broad and flat, usually gold, inlaid with precious stones, and a long one, the lambanam

.Baju band or armlets of gold and silver beads were worn on the upper arm, and were occasionally studded with precious stones. Bracelets called Kangan, very often made of square or round beads of gold, and richly embroidered cloth belts completed the male ensemble. 

Women, in addition, wore girdle called mekhala, a hip belt of multi-stringed beads, originally made from the red seed kaksha but then made of gold and silver beads, with shapes ranging from round to square and oval. All women wore anklets and thumb and finger rings. 

The rings were plain and crowded together on the middle joints of the fingers. Anklets were often of gold in this period, though silver was more common. They could be in the form of a simple ring, Kara, a thick chain, sankla, oran ornamental circle with small bells called ghungru. There is no evidence of nose-rings in the period.

Textiles & Dyes

The weaving of fine and coarse varieties of cloth was well established. Cotton, silk, wool, linen, and jute fabrics were readily available. Furs and the better varieties of wool and silk like tussar, called kausheya like Eri or Muga silk of Assam, yellowish in its natural color but when bleached called patrona, were used.

 Kaseyyaka (High-quality cotton or silk) and the bright red woolen blankets of Gandhara were worth a small fortune each. A rainproof woolen cloth was available in Nepal. 

Resist dyeing and hand printing in a pattern on cloth has been mentioned by Greek visitors to the court of Chandragupta Maurya, as is the Indian glazed cotton cloth, which was in common use by 400 BC. Material similar to the khinkhwab (which is the interweaving of silk and gold or silver wires beautiful floral pattern) was in great demand and even exported to Babylon long before the Mauryas. Cotton, wool and a fabric called karpasa were available in the north in both coarse and fine varieties. There were also fine muslins often embroidered in purple and gold and transparent like later-day material, which came to be called shabnam (morning dew). The coarse varieties were used by the populace. Woollen cloth, avika, from the sheep’s wool was either pure white (bleached) or dyed pure red, rose, or black. Blankets or kambala were either made by completing the edges with borders or braids, or woven wool strips were joined together. The process of felting (pressing the fibers together, instead of weaving) was also made known. 

All varieties of wool were available, coarse for making headdresses, trappings, and blankets for richer class.

The Gupta Period

 Gupta Dynasty was founded in the beginning of the 4th Century to the late 6th Century CE after the collapse of the Kushana empire. Gupta rulers acquired much of the land previously held by the Mauryan Empire, and peace and trade flourished under their rule. The golden age brought more knowledge including architects making amazing temples and structures.  

The Gupta period was also known as the Golden period and ‘Classical period’, as an extraordinary balance was found in the arts and administration system. Many Historians observed the Gupta period as the classical age of India, as at that time Indian Art, Literature, Architecture, and Philosophy were established. In this Era, Sanskrit became an official language. Shakuntala and Malavikaagnimitra, are a vital part of the period. During this time, India saw a remarkable age of artistic, cultural, and intellectual achievement. Along with advancements in science, technology, and mathematics, this time period is notable for the blooming of art and literature. Clothing and textiles were significant means of expressing cultural identity, social standing, and personal flair throughout this time.

Fashion & Clothing

The Gupta’s adopted the form of dress that became traditionally identified with royalty. Some clothes to be worn on informal occasions are Antariya, Uttariya & Kayabandh. In Northern India, the great emphasis was on stitched garments as per the convenience of climatic conditions but in south India, as it is quite outward today, the originally ingrown Antariya, Uttariya, and kayabandh held their own. 

Men’s Clothing:

Clothing in the Gupta period was mainly cut and sewn garments. 

A long sleevedbrocaded tunic became the main costume for privileged people like the nobles and courtiers. 

Dhotis, a rectangular piece of cloth that was wrapped around the waist and legs, were the most common garment worn by males throughout the Gupta era. 

The dhoti came in a variety of hues and patterns and was frequently made of cotton or silk. Men furthermore wore a long kurta, which was a traditional garment made of cotton or silk and adorned with embroidery or designs. 

Theking’s costume was often of striped blue(perhaps with a block printed pattern), closely woven silk with a moving Uttariya. 

Women’s Clothing:

During the Gupta era, women wore saris, which were long garments draped over the shoulder and wrapped around the body. The sari was usually composed of cotton or silk, and it was frequently adorned with beadwork, elaborate designs, and embroidery. 

The short-sleeved blouse known as a choli, which was frequently embellished with embroidery or designs, was also worn by women.The variationin Antariya is much superiorthan men and hence it is harder to point out particular sources. The Antariya which was 18-36 inches wide and 4-8 yards long, was worn in Kachcha style as worn as lehenga. 

Some other form of Antariya was worn in lehenga and kachcha style both together, which was usually a very short Antariya till the mid-thigh, called as calanika; was wrapped around like a short lehenga. Also, it was occasionally worn like the Indonesian sarong as wrapped around fashion from under the armpits or mid-thigh. Bhairinivasini, the skirt had evolved from Antairya when stitched on one side and held by the girdle.

 Jain and Buddhist nuns are the first to use the Bharinivasini, an arouse from the idea that women’s body is pure and must be covered, the kachcha style lehenga style is considered seductive because the skirt is pulled tight across the hips. Ghagra is an evolved skirt from Bharinivasini which is held with a drawstring.

Textiles:

The finest textiles were available, printed, painted, dyed, and richly patterned in the weaves or embroidery in the 

Gupta Empire. 

Dyeing too was very sophisticated and the diagonal stripes were widespread, in places merged soft and dark tones into each other.Because of their superior artistry and quality, textiles were a significant part of the Gupta era. The finest textiles were available, printed, painted, dyed, and richly patterned in the weaves or embroidery in the Gupta Empire. 

Dyeing too was very sophisticated and the diagonal stripes were widespread, in places merged soft and dark tones into each other.Silk was highly valued and frequently used for special events as well as upper class attire. Cotton was another material that was frequently utilised and offered a variety of grades, from coarse to fine.

 In colder areas, wool was utilised, and it was frequently dyed in vivid hues. Natural colours derived from plants, roots, and minerals were widely used during the Gupta dynasty. A variety of colours, including red, yellow, green, blue, and purple, were produced with these dyes.

Decorative Methods:

The Gupta era is renowned for its decorative methods, particularly in weaving and embroidery. Clothing and textiles were frequently embellished with embroidery, which was typically done with silk or metallic threads. Additionally, highly prized was weaving, and throughout the Gupta era new methods and designs emerged. The most well-known of them was the ikat method, which involved tying and dying the threads before weaving to produce elaborate patterns and designs.

Jewellery:

The jewelry was for both men and women beautifully made, attained a new fragility after beaten work, filigree work, and twisted wire was skilfully combined with jewels, especially pearls. For necklaces, silk and ribbons were used. 

Kundala were of two types both circular. Finger rings were in common use. Well-known anklets of their times are Kinikini and Nupura.Particularly for ladies, jewellery played a significant role in Gupta costume. They wore many different pieces of jewellery, such as anklets, bracelets, earrings, and necklaces. 

These were extremely valuable and frequently crafted of gold, silver, or precious stones. Jewellery was a status and wealth marker that was frequently handed down from one generation to the next. 

Filigree work and granulation, two new jewelry-making methods that were developed during the Gupta era and used to produce elaborate motifs and patterns.The original hair style showed itself in long hair worn in a bun, tied at the side of the head, either high or low on the neck, or with the spiral looped on the left, on the top of  the head. 

A Ratna jaal or jeweled net, or one of the pearls called Mukta jala was worn over the bun. Tiaras were often used in short or long hair. In Men, the turban was replaced with a tiara or crown with a band with garlands. In the royal support, high officials wore the turbans like the chamberlain, ministers, and military officials. Some ministers are there known as Brahmins who removed their hairs from the head keeping on the ritual to knots.

Colours:

Colours were utilised to transmit meaning and social position in Gupta textiles, where they played a significant role. Bright hues like red, yellow, and green were frequently employed for special occasions and for upper class attire. Lower-class people tended to like wearing darker hues like black and brown. Additionally, white was employed, especially for cotton garments. A variety of colours, including red from madder, yellow from turmeric, and blue from indigo, were produced by the natural dyes employed in Gupta fabrics.

In conclusion, India experienced a great period of creative and cultural achievement during the Gupta era, and clothes and textiles significantly contributed to this. Women donned saris and cholis, while males wore dhotis and kurtas. Because of the high value of textiles, new methods and patterns were developed throughout the Gupta era.

A Perception of what is known as “Fashion” appeared in court life. And tends to change much faster than everyday life and also forms the course of history, as its aim is purely ornamental, whereas practical changes in clothes have a thorough logically which can 19 

be outlined more clearly to climatic consideration, social environment and availability of material, etc.

Difference between Early Vedic Period and Later Vedic period

1) The name of the period of early Vedic period is also called ‘Early Vedic Period’, and later Vedic period is also known as ‘Vedic Period’.

2) The Early Vedic Period covers more than 1800 years, but in the Later Vedic period, it was approximately 1200 years between 1500 and 500 BCE.

3) The Early Vedic people are called by historians as Aryans or Indo Aryans, whereas Later Vedic people are called Hindu people.

4) The Early Vedic period is considered to be a formative period for Hinduism as we know it today. Whereas in the Later Vedic period, Hindu religion has been developed and matured considerably after the classical age of the Rigveda.

5) The religious texts of Early Vedic Period were developed in a mainly oral society whereas texts of Later Vedic were written in learned sages and Rishis who composed their hymns. 

6) The main language used by Early Vedic people was Sanskrit, whereas during the Later Vedic period the prevalent language used was Prakrit. 

Movies/Series set in Ancient India:

• Buddha (series -September 1972 to 1983)

• Amrapali (1966 film)

• Ashoka20 

Key words 

Antalya: was the main garment,an unstitched length of cloth draped around the hips in a kachcha style

Muraja: a band around the waist

Uttariya: a long scarf to cover the upper part of the body

Khinkhwab: textile made from the interweaving of silk and gold or silver wires beautiful floral pattern